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Wednesday, September 11, 2002

i decided to commemorate todays special day by surfing all by myself this morning. that wasn't too hard to do since there were very few waves. i pulled up in the Rincon parking lot with only one other dilapidated van in it, and because i just wanted to get wet i suited up and walked down there anyway. it was about 6" max, so even though i had the place to myself i kept driving (with wetsuit on...don't you hate those days?). i ended up going out along the PCH in what looked like 1' waves, but the (infrequent) sets were just under waist high with really fast pitching lefts that i spent the whole time trying to compress my 6' frame into, without any luck.
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Santa Barbara Surfing. Created by Tim Maddux. Continued by Pope.