Wednesday, September 04, 2002
i'm enjoying this swell. mostly i enjoy it because it takes some knowledge to figure out where to go based on angle, tide, wind, etc. makes the pursuit that much more fun. in that light i choose the wrong place for my sunset session last night, but i committed to it so i made the best of it. while other places were well overhead i was making do at a shoulder high beach break.
this mornings sunrise session was a different story. we showed up along the PCH at 6:30 to find semi-messy overhead waves. we paddled out during a set that had clean and fast lefts and rumbly rights. after about 15 minutes the offshore wind started gusting at least 20knts out of the canyons. the waves were holding up too long and boards were flying away. 5 minutes later it started raining. Then after another 10 minutes the rain stopped, and the wind switched to 20knts onshore. We were in the middle of a localized squall. after 5 minutes of this we had about 5-10 minutes of glassy waves before the chop came back. one of the weirder sessions of my life. the water was too cold for my spring suit(read:wuss) and my feet couldn't seem to grab my board right. one of those sessions where you feel like you forgot how to surf. looks like we should have waves for awhile so be good to each out there, ya' here.
link to this
Santa Barbara Surfing. Created by Tim Maddux. Continued by Pope.
