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Monday, September 09, 2002

OMG I can't believe how fun these 2 swells have been. Being on vacation i managed to squeeze 2-3 sessions in a day in various parts of the coast including a frolic at a near-empty Rincon. All last week the waves were up as was the rain and clouds. The waves had decent size down south but you had to navigate the wind and tide to get a session without slop. However, on saturday the weather turned to pure sun and the waves turned to pure flat. Yesterday the swell began to build up before my eyes and turn a small morning session into the best surf I got all week. Although I knew there were waves out there in the afternoon, i was too wiped out and passed it up. Now I'm back at work and all i can think about is when i can get out there again.
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Santa Barbara Surfing. Created by Tim Maddux. Continued by Pope.