Santa Barbara Surfing

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Monday, September 30, 2002

patience is a virtue and one maybe i don't have. after my bad-mouthing of the swell it finally came in to prove me wrong. a sunset session last night down at pipes with sets that were head-high and sometimes a bit overhead. yet again some real long lulls but some severe multi-wave sets. great shape, fast, lips getting smacked and lips smacking heads. this am the swell model looks even more promising with 4.5ft @ 17s from 180 yet a brothers gotta work.
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Saturday, September 28, 2002

bizarro morning down south. overcast and later some sprinkles yet waves real clean. never seen it so crowded so early. every surfer in the area is listening to the surf reports forecasting a good SW'er yet in reality the waves were waist high at best. long, long lulls but multi-wave sets. people were dragged out of the woodwork and i recognized only a few familiar faces. much chaos yet our lil' tribe was able to pick off enough to feel fulfilled.

some NW on our way. The "Latest Reports" is geared up and ready to launch with said swell.
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Wednesday, September 25, 2002

got some waves last night and this am. i don't know if it's from the SW or just windswell, but if you get out of the island shadow there are waves to be had. this morning for a super-pre-dawn session in heavy fog and some cheese on top that later cleanup up. waist high waves with long lulls such that if you did a quick check you would either think it was dead flat or think it was going off. To me it seems that SW swells usually have longer lulls and I dont' understand the physics behind it.
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Tuesday, September 24, 2002

i woke up at 6am and jetted down south only to get no waves. the 225 angle looks like you'd really have to go below ventura to get some action. it's mornings like this i can only hope that my efforts are just part of paying the dues. one of these days it'll pay off.
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Saturday, September 21, 2002

dawn patrol. stop.
uber flat. stop.
over and out. stop.
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Friday, September 20, 2002

i guess the rocket launched a little late at 17:36. fog shrouded my view but i heard people in LA were a little worried by the site of missles in the air.

this am i headed down south and Rincon was very small so i continued on to a beachbreak along the PCH and surfed in small yet clean waves. the biggest wave was waist high yet most were at the knees. weekend looks like it'll be even flatter although next week could see some SW. dawn patrol sessions down south are a hassle because of traffic coming back. after the great stoke of a fun session it's a real bummer to sit in traffic from Carpenteria to Milpas.
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Thursday, September 19, 2002

there was supposed to be a launch from vanderberg at 18:01 but i think they didn't launch it. if you are selling a local shortboard in good condition between 6'10-7'4" for real cheap let me know, i need a stick.
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Wednesday, September 18, 2002

Ian tells me a glass off session yesterday along the Gaviota Coast yielded some chest high waves. the swell marches in. first touch of NW of the season if im not mistaken. Greg and i made it out at Rincon this morning. Nothing epic, but there were fun waves that at times were chest high. still too hot for my fullsuit but very close to hanging up the spring suit for the season.
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Tuesday, September 17, 2002

Last night was a Mesa session with nice size and shape. There was some rescue going on out there too. I guess a beach-goer had gotten caught by the tide and was too scared to make it back so the SBFD tromped out there in force and helped her back. Coast Guard or Harbor Patrol was also out there along with some helpful good samaritan surfers. Tried out my friends 7'4" Progressive which is for sale and am currently looking at selling anything I own that isn't stapled down to buy a new shortboard for the coming winter.
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Monday, September 16, 2002

On Saturday the Ventura LongBoard championships were held in some well set in Marine Layer and very small and mushy waves and then followed by the Surfrider Foundation benefit SurfFlick. The band, The Phantom Riders, are recommended highly. The movie, Wordz, is not recommended at all.

Typically trying not to use this forum to preach too much, I'll highlight the issues Surfrider Ventura is working on and you can take it from there if you feel so inspired.
No on Measure "A" | Register to Vote.
Restoring Surfer's Point
Removing Matilija Dam

Looking at the waves, the bouys are showing very little right now. Wetsand is tracking Tropical Storm Iselle that, if it continues as predicted, would bring some swell to us this coming weekend. Wetsand also says we should see some NW starting today and although 275 is exciting for us in the Shadow, 1.1ft @ 8s is not.
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Thursday, September 12, 2002

Ok...looks like Ventura County did put up the Warning sign and here's the story:

"Thanks for your question. We received re-sample results for Rincon late yesterday afternoon and I made changes to our Web site and hotline indicating that all of our beaches met the bacteria standards. It was too late yesterday to drive up and remove the signs at Rincon so we took them down first thing this morning. For the most up-to-date Ventura County information, please check out telephone hotline at 805/662-6555 and our Web site. We make every effort to remove posted signs but, sometimes timing gets the best of us. Sorry for any confusion.
Sincerely,
Richard Hauge, Coordinator, Ocean Water Quality Monitoring Program"


All of this is mute however since it is looking real flat out there right now. It horrows me to think of how bad the water will be when we get our first big storm this winter after getting so little rain last year.
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Wednesday, September 11, 2002

So I forgot to mention that Rincon had an "Aviso" sign out this morning because the water quality test failed. This sign was posted by Ventura County, which is interesting since Rincon is right on the County Line. However I can't find any info on it's closure on the Ventura nor Santa Barbara testing sites. Could it be a hoax by some wave hungry pranksters? However... when i went out there last friday, which was the day after we got that freak rain from Hurricane Hernan, there was stuff floating in the water and that led us to cut our session short and may have been why it wasn't too crowded that day.
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i decided to commemorate todays special day by surfing all by myself this morning. that wasn't too hard to do since there were very few waves. i pulled up in the Rincon parking lot with only one other dilapidated van in it, and because i just wanted to get wet i suited up and walked down there anyway. it was about 6" max, so even though i had the place to myself i kept driving (with wetsuit on...don't you hate those days?). i ended up going out along the PCH in what looked like 1' waves, but the (infrequent) sets were just under waist high with really fast pitching lefts that i spent the whole time trying to compress my 6' frame into, without any luck.
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Tuesday, September 10, 2002

the work leash has kept me in goleta but visual checks have have shown no waves up here, although stories abound about down south. shucks.

This weekend is the Ventura LongBoard Championships on Saturday and Sunday. I can't find a site about it, but it's worth checking out as a sweet community event that usually drags out some old-tyme classic longboarders. I don't think I can convince my Uncle to let me borrow his late 60's BING David Nuuhiwa Noserider, but if so, it would qualify for the "Old Logs" competion which requires boards over 30 years old, 9 feet tall, no leashes or wetsuits. Just good old Barefoot Ventura.

After the contest is the "central coast premier" of Wordz, a Longboarding Lexicon. Check out further on that Surfrider Ventura site to see Tim's post about Mondos Acess.
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Monday, September 09, 2002

OMG I can't believe how fun these 2 swells have been. Being on vacation i managed to squeeze 2-3 sessions in a day in various parts of the coast including a frolic at a near-empty Rincon. All last week the waves were up as was the rain and clouds. The waves had decent size down south but you had to navigate the wind and tide to get a session without slop. However, on saturday the weather turned to pure sun and the waves turned to pure flat. Yesterday the swell began to build up before my eyes and turn a small morning session into the best surf I got all week. Although I knew there were waves out there in the afternoon, i was too wiped out and passed it up. Now I'm back at work and all i can think about is when i can get out there again.
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Wednesday, September 04, 2002

afternoon update: the swell model continues to look more swell. i'm on vacation until monday for some camping, surfing, and squeezing the last drops out of summer. in the meantime entertain yourself with some of the following links people have emailed me about to point out: Jet Skis? ,Grant Washburn interview, UCSBGaucho.

see you monday.
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i'm enjoying this swell. mostly i enjoy it because it takes some knowledge to figure out where to go based on angle, tide, wind, etc. makes the pursuit that much more fun. in that light i choose the wrong place for my sunset session last night, but i committed to it so i made the best of it. while other places were well overhead i was making do at a shoulder high beach break.

this mornings sunrise session was a different story. we showed up along the PCH at 6:30 to find semi-messy overhead waves. we paddled out during a set that had clean and fast lefts and rumbly rights. after about 15 minutes the offshore wind started gusting at least 20knts out of the canyons. the waves were holding up too long and boards were flying away. 5 minutes later it started raining. Then after another 10 minutes the rain stopped, and the wind switched to 20knts onshore. We were in the middle of a localized squall. after 5 minutes of this we had about 5-10 minutes of glassy waves before the chop came back. one of the weirder sessions of my life. the water was too cold for my spring suit(read:wuss) and my feet couldn't seem to grab my board right. one of those sessions where you feel like you forgot how to surf. looks like we should have waves for awhile so be good to each out there, ya' here.
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Tuesday, September 03, 2002

lunchtime update: swell model looks even better then this morning. Blue Pacific in Goleta is selling stuff for half off for some reason.
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The swell model this am looks like we are seeing some super steep SSE (165) swell which has a history of hitting certain spots that are sleepy. Wetsand and Surfline are talking up Hernan's arrival today, which has made it to Hurricane status.

In other news, this site should be 1e6 times more stable now because jmann has given me space to host it on his super-stable servers. let me know if there is anything wrong on your end.
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