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Wednesday, April 14, 2004

Mank reports from SD:

I arrived at the la jolla shores parking lot this morning to meet my friend mario for dawn patrol. instead of a quiet parkinglot, I found 4 news crews, lights set up, over a dozen cop cars, lifeguards galore, and a coast guard helicopter w/a searchlight combing the beach. we asked a tv guy what was going on, and he said a surfer was pulled out to sea by the rip current. pretty unbelievable. most surfers know how to deal with currents and it's rare a surfer paddles out that early... it was only 5:40am.

we go up the beach a bit, anticipating a good swell, suit up and paddle out. mostly head high, the sets were very clean and remarkably well shaped. mario and I had a stellar session, ever though the loud as hell coast guard 'copter was above for almost the entire session. good times. not for that swimmer though.

funny thing... the surfshot cam caught mario in a wave. I missed my 15min of fame.



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