The paddle back (I had to paddle, to pay my dues) took ten minutes. All the waves after that one were just gravy. Some so fast down the line at full trim that my little 6'6" just skipped on the mild chop.
Caught inside more than once, washed into the rivermouth by hell sets. Took an early one square on the head and got flipped over holding my board and pushed down into the sand.
Finally got out due to raw all-encompassing hunger. Roll on, winter.