Saw a blond short-haired surfer in a Victory wetsuit that looked a lot like local pro Chris Brown, but that doesn't make sense -- he should be in Hawaii for the Lopez Pipe Masters contest, right?
Best wave I got was the first, big wide open faces for carving roundhouses back into the soup.
The rocks were starting to show on Monday, and now the sand on the walk from the stairs to the top of the point is essentially gone, dragged seaward. Time to bust out those booties.