Friday, September 29, 1995 @ 3:00 PM
under the dumping curtain call
- Date/Time:
- Friday, Sept. 29th, 3:00 pm - 6:00 pm
- Location:
- Rivermouth/Indicator, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Blue sunny skies. Hot hot hot.
- Conditions:
- Fairly clean with some south swell junking it up.
- Swell:
- Weak setty WNW groundswell. Waist to chest high sets.
- Comments:
- Looked sad from the stairs, and I almost didn't go out. Paddled out in the beachbreak and then down to the indicator, quickly moved into the rivermouth where it was fast, fun, and rippable.
Talked with a fellow from Newport, heard it was going off down there.
Eventually the tide got to it and the rivermouth began to back off and close out, lots of late drops and panicky bottom turns under the dumping curtain call.
- -TM (original post)
Thursday, September 28, 1995 @ 5:00 PM
rip the living hell out of it
- Date/Time:
- Thursday, Sept. 28th, 5:00 pm
- Location:
- Bates Beach/Indicator, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Thick wooly low clouds with sunny skies over the oil rigs offshore.
- Conditions:
- Clean and shiny. A little windswell mixing it up slightly.
- Swell:
- WNW gone. Only southern swells showing on the indicator and beach. Sets at waist high, bigger peaks on the indicator, but not much.
- Comments:
- Hope you got some yesterday. A few people out on the indicator, and young members of the Channel Islands surf team directly out from the stairs, surfing some sort of competition/training exercise. Get a wave, rip the living hell out of it, then surf/belly/swim in and run up the beach, around the flag, and out again for another wave.
Kinda fun to watch. These kids are good.
- -TM (original post here)
Wednesday, September 27, 1995 @ 4:00 PM
Indicator
- Date/Time:
- Wednesday, Sept. 27th, 4:00 pm - 6:30 pm
- Location:
- Indicator, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Grey overcast skies with west onshores of decent strength.
- Conditions:
- Lined up and a little weak, with thick scoops of chop.
- Swell:
- Weakening WNW groundswell. Sets to shoulder high.
- Comments:
- Less crowded than yesterday. Got all the set waves I wanted. Most didn't make it into the first rivermouth section, having a mushy and weak shoulder good for repeated cutbacks into the soup but not having that truly fun down the line speed.
Went back to the springsuit, and felt liberated. Had a few wipeouts, including one inexplicable fall off the back, losing my balance while hopping for speed.
Best wave was the last. Shoulder high with fun peaky rippable sections all the way from the top of the indicator down past the mouth of the river. Ahoooooooooo--oooo.
Tuesday, September 26, 1995 @ 2:00 PM
Spanish Tiles
- Date/Time:
- Tuesday, Sept. 26th, 2:00 pm - 6:00 pm
- Location:
- Indicator, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Hazy sunshine with light northwest winds.
- Conditions:
- Mushy yet lined up, with water surface like Spanish tiles.
- Swell:
- Somewhat inconsistent WNW wind and groundswells. Sets up to chest high, with the occasional reaching shoulder to head.
- Comments:
- Lined up into the rivermouth, with weak shoulders requiring a lot of cutbacks and having little juice. Rivermouth much better set up on the occasional walled inside wave, closing out quickly.
Wore a fullsuit due to paranoia about the clouds, and baked. Should have gone with the spring a little longer.
Sunday, September 24, 1995 @ 12:00 PM
Sequit
- Date/Time:
- Sunday, Sept. 24th, 12:00 noon - 4:00 pm
- Location:
- Sequit, CA
- Weather:
- Sunny with hazy marine layer over the air show to the north.
- Conditions:
- Decent with some ripples rebounding from the rock.
- Swell:
- Fun combination swell. Waist to head high sets, some overhead.
- Comments:
- It's been flat so long that the local surfcasters are calling head high sets to 'as high as double overhead.' Hype!
Spent a lot of time driving and checking, unhappy with the conditions at the Fairgrounds and the Strand, although the latter was pulling in some nicer peaks and better drops. Sequit was a zoo, with some stoked kids getting surf lessons from the Malibu Boardriders Club, pairs on tandems out on the shoulder. Lots of hooting and cheering from the shore at every ride. The pack on the rock was hungry, and while the waves there had more juice on the takeoff, they weren't making it very far before falling behind a mushy section.
Had more fun and luck taking off behind the outer rock and outside reef. Large sets would occasionally break out there that looked to be well overhead, then reform inside for a nice down-the-line racetrack wall. Every wave ending in a closeout coverup or kickout wishing "if only I had cranked that turn a little harder I could have made that section..."
Saturday, September 23, 1995 @ 3:00 PM
Better elsewhere no doubt
- Date/Time:
- Saturday, Sept. 23rd, 3:00 pm - 6:00 pm
- Location:
- Indicator/Rivermouth, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Sunny and warm. Some haze.
- Conditions:
- Fair to poor. Swell combo and low tide junk and ripples.
- Swell:
- Combination of S, SW, and WNW groundswells. Sets from waist to occasional shoulder high. Southern swells dominating with few set waves really lining up. Better elsewhere no doubt.
- Comments:
- Hard time sleeping last night with all the swell hype. Visions of late drops and broken boards and alien abductions (X-Files spillover) in the lineup.
The new board has excellent drive even in the mush and the rocker is well tuned to the late entry. Even pulled me out of a spill over the tail, popped me up to my feet leaving me incredulous.
Shape was much better in the rivermouth, as well as the crowds. Left and right peaks with workable walls and lots of cutbacks. Not bad but it was probably better to break the habit and go elsewhere.
Thursday, September 21, 1995 @ 5:00 PM
Too pig-dog sick to go out
- Date/Time:
- Thursday, Sept. 21st, 5:00 pm - 6:00 pm
- Location:
- Sands Beach, Goleta, CA
- Weather:
- Carbon copy of the rest of the week... hazy sunshine.
- Conditions:
- Mushy but clean.
- Swell:
- Setty little SE swell making it past the islands from the hurricane. Knee to waist high.
- Comments:
- Too pig-dog sick to go out.
Tuesday, September 19, 1995 @ 2:00 PM
Bates Beach
- Date/Time:
- Tuesday, Sept. 19th, 2:00 pm - 3:00 pm
- Location:
- Bates Beach, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Mild temperature with hazy sunshine and cool onshores.
- Conditions:
- Mushy with light wind ripples.
- Swell:
- Small and gutless, knee to waist high.
- Comments:
- Second time out on the new board. Great rail to rail response even in the flats. Waves had some nice shape despite their small size, but were closing out quickly down the line. Wore just trunks and a polypropylene rash-guard. This stuff is amazing, instant warmth again after a duckdive and no chill from the wind. Much more noticeable when utilized alone than in conjunction with a wetsuit.
Friday, September 15, 1995 @ 3:00 PM
Tim Maddux's First Report
- Date/Time:
- Friday, Sept. 15th, 3:00 pm - 5:00 pm
- Location:
- Indicator, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Sunny, light breezes.
- Conditions:
- Some small bump on the water, waves mostly mushed out.
- Swell:
- Weakened WNW windswell. Sets to chest high.
- Comments:
- First day on the new 6'6". First impressions were a definite improvement in response and carves very tight off the back foot. A slower paddle than my older, wider, and thicker 6'5", and requires definite effort to keep it going through slower sections. Recovers much better through the whitewater or off the top.
A return of the winter crew that strangely didn't show on Thursday, people talking about their new guns for the winter and reminiscing about last year. Waves were very sporadic. Should have been there yesterday.
- TM