Tuesday, October 31, 1995 @ 9:00 AM
fun offshore rock reef break
- Date/Time:
- Halloween, Tuesday, Oct. 31st, 9:00 am - 12:00 noon
- Location:
- Santa Barbara County, CA
- Weather:
- Overcast and drizzly on the road, mottled sun on the beach.
- Conditions:
- Glassy. Light winds generating little capillary waves late in the session.
- Swell:
- W swell, inconsistent sets at shoulder high +, some cleanups as high as overhead.
- Comments:
- Surfed a fun offshore rock reef break. Only three of us out including me, two going left and me alone going right. A lot of kelp on the inside and a lot of failed attempts chasing down the walling sections. Made all but one of my way-late drops on the outside sets which usually closed out. Rippable waist to shoulder high fun on the smaller stuff.
Saturday, October 28, 1995 @ 2:00 PM
backside helps bring up the apparent size
- Date/Time:
- Saturday, Oct. 28th, 2:00 pm - 4:30 pm
- Location:
- Silver Strand, Oxnard, CA
- Weather:
- Cool and overcast with light onshores.
- Conditions:
- Variable. High tide mush and relfection off the steep beach.
- Swell:
- W swell, sets around waist high with inconsistent shoulder-head high peaks coming in across the beach. Shifty.
- Comments:
- Fun on the smaller lefts, going backside helps bring up the apparent size a little bit. Scored a couple of set bombs near the north jetty, late drops and fast down the line to beat the closing sections.
Thursday, October 26, 1995 @ 6:00 AM
Whip Ladys House
- Date/Time:
- Thursday, Oct. 26th, 6:00 am - 6:30 am
- Location:
- Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Dark.
- Conditions:
- Glassy with cold offshores blowing over Bates Beach.
- Swell:
- Knee to maybe waist high sets, weak NW swell. Didn't go.
- Comments:
- My first predawn patrol ever, even dragged the roommate out to share the cold with me. Bright lights from the half-built mansion where Naomi's house used to be, shining out over the beachbreak. Checked the cove too and discovered we weren't even the first ones out as an understandably grumpy fellow came back from a check of the rivermouth.
Took a look for ourselves and saw the strangest thing... a woman out on her back porch in loose-fitting clothing with something that looked vaguely like a whip, assaulting her outdoor furniture... ka-crack.
After seeing that, figured it was time to head home and sleep.
Monday, October 23, 1995 @ 7:30 AM
doubling my lifetime accumulated tube time
- Date/Time:
- Monday, Oct. 23rd, 7:30 am - 10:00 am
- Location:
- Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Sunny with golfball shaped clouds overhead and light offshores.
- Conditions:
- Almost perfect. Some south wrinkle showing in the walls.
- Swell:
- Mushy and inconsistent out of the WNW. Waist high with some larger.
- Comments:
- High tide eating this one up. Still revelled in the return to dawn patrolling... the smell of offshores out of the canyon blowing cold against bare skin while changing... the blinding sun scattering off the waves as they wrap inside...
Best wave was the second to last one, a freak set coming off the indicator that wrapped strong and fast halfway down the point to deep inside the rivermouth. Perfect trim, perfect shape, and my second real barrel (first totally dry), doubling my lifetime accumulated tube time in one shot, and that wasn't the end of it.
Paddled back up top through the rest of the set and it shut down until Huey convinced me I shouldn't get greedy and sent me in, whereupon sets came through again. I still got mine though.
- -TM (original report here)
Sunday, October 22, 1995 @ 3:00 PM
killer walls bowling
- Date/Time:
- Sunday, Oct. 22nd, 3:00 pm - Sunset
- Location:
- Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Sunny with haze on the horizon.
- Conditions:
- Wrinkled and chopulated fading to glass with the sun and swell.
- Swell:
- Fun yet inconsistent out of the WNW. Waist to shoulder high.
- Comments:
- It was better in the morning, walls through the cove coming in up to overhead, but I had to drive home, hoping to get some better shape on the low tide.
Saw some killer walls bowling across three sections in the Indicator from the stairs, fast but makeable. It stayed good for about a half hour and faded quickly.
The crowd was thick and fighting over every little wave. Nothing went by unsurfed.
A raw beginner was out atop the indicator on a 9' board, belly- dropping each wave he tried for and then slowly crawling to his feet in the soup, standing up down by the rivermouth rocks. Saw him burn about 8 people and strangely nobody said a word to him.
- -TM (original report here)
Friday, October 13, 1995 @ 8:00 AM
almost got semi- consistent
- Date/Time:
- Friday, Oct. 13th, 8:00 am - 10:00 am
- Location:
- Indicator, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Overcast, cool air, warm water, no wind.
- Conditions:
- Fairly good. A little south showing, making it sectiony and weird.
- Swell:
- WNW groundswell. Sets from waist to chest high. Very inconsistent.
- Comments:
- Didn't live up to the expectations from yesterday's surf. More push with the tide, but lost consistency and size. Someone in the lineup commmented after a few waves came through, "hey, it almost got semi- consistent for a minute there."
Still some fun waves to be had on the inside, racing through the bowls into the kelpfest in the rivermouth.
Thursday, October 12, 1995 @ 3:00 PM
The Guy on the Waveski
- Date/Time:
- Thursday, Oct. 12th, 4:00 pm - 6:00 pm
- Location:
- Indicator, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Thick high overcast clouds with cold onshore breezes. Water, however, surprisingly warm. Even the woman in her bikini was smiling about it (side note: Peter Amschel always refers to those who wear wetsuits as being womanly or somesuch, yet the women at Rincon are consistently the ones with less neoprene, if any. Meanwhile the guys are sweating in their fullsuits).
- Conditions:
- Poor. Some south bump and a lot of wind chop. No glass off today.
- Swell:
- WNW groundswell. Sets from waist to shoulder high.
- Comments:
- Checked it at dawn. Flat flat flat. Glassy, but flat. Some nice south peaks every 10-20 minutes, being picked off by "the guy on the waveski."
The call came down at 3:00 pm -- you know the one -- saying "get on it before the crowd". Yeah right. The crowd checks it every five minutes at Rincon.
Bailed on class and a meeting anyways, and glad I did. Tore down the highway, swerving between cars as a warmup for the fiberglass curtain.
Waves were peaky with some south still combining it up. Real mush on the shoulder, but had fun anyways. Winter crew out early, and the water is still toasty and warm
Thursday, October 05, 1995 @ 9:00 AM
only two young kids out on boogie boards
- Date/Time:
- Thursday, Oct. 5th, 9:00 am - 11:00 am
- Location:
- Rivermouth, Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Warm and sunny. Marine layer from last night vanished.
- Conditions:
- Poor, with showing south dominating the base swell.
- Swell:
- Combination swells out of the south and northwest. Sets to shoulder high on the drop, then fading fast to knee high, then back up again at the next combo peak.
- Comments:
- You should have been there yesterday. Today, only two young kids out on boogie boards. Decided to share the shifty peaks with them after much deliberation.
A school of 15-20 dolphins came through the lineup and ripped it for about a half hour. They stuck mainly to the shoulder, popping out when the face steepened. Usually one leader with the rest following. A great show.
Wednesday, October 04, 1995 @ 4:00 PM
better than expected
- Date/Time:
- Wednesday, Oct. 4th, 4:00 pm - 6:00 pm
- Location:
- Rincon, CA
- Weather:
- Warm and sunny. No wind.
- Conditions:
- Excellent, although a little mushy from the high tide.
- Swell:
- Surprisingly good WNW windswell. Sets at shoulder high.
- Comments:
- Much better than expected; not indicated on the wind readings from this morning. A lot of fading peaks didn't make it through the rivermouth, but the occasional lined-up and well-shaped set wave did.
Crowd incredibly thick.
Sunday, October 01, 1995 @ 12:00 PM
Too zooed and small to go out
- Date/Time:
- Sunday, Oct. 1st, 12:00 noon - 1:00 pm
- Location:
- Sequit, CA
- Weather:
- Fog with warm sun barely making it through.
- Conditions:
- Fair, with lots of swell wash and rebound off of the rock.
- Swell:
- Weak out of the SW, sets from knee to chest high.
- Comments:
- Lots of collisions and falls. The best surfing was by youngsters on longboards on the inside. Too zooed and small to go out.