It would have been perfect if I had not forgotten my booties, left
hanging in neglect on the clothesline. It felt good to barefoot
it on the first and best wave, the highlight of which was a layback
snap that I did on purpose and pulled off.
Hot and glassy, everyone caught sleeping because the buoys were
offline, I even got out late because of that. Surfed until I
was more exhausted than afraid of the walk in over the rocks.