Paddled out just as it was beginning to line up well. The largest sets still closed out from rock to rock, but the insiders were clean, fast, and fun. Things were very hectic, almost out of control, with the crowd early on, multiple drop-ins, several people going onto/into/over the rock (the big one).
So, it took some time to get into the groove, but then connected with a few sets that were missed by the longboarders hanging outside. Highlight was a late drop on an overhead wave, one hard bottom turn and then driving for the shoulder which raced me all the way to the stairs.
Bumped into Zuma from the alt.surfing newsgroup on his Fang-inspired crash-test-dummy board, looked over and there he was, waiting patiently for a wave. Got one more good one and a couple more grovelly ones to finish out the day.
Got home and a present was waiting for me from SURFER magazine, my ordered-from-the-net CDs and vids finally came in! Added bonus: picked up the new Surfer's Journal (v. 5, no. 2) and immediately had my mind blown by Woody Woodworth's aerial shots of California lineups. Get this one, the pictures are amazing.
It's unlikely that I'll surf or do an update tomorrow, so happy 4th of July (United States Independence Day), folks...