Paddled out to the regular lineup and began picking off the smaller waves, head high or so, fast and all mine.
One: A little inside one at chest high, set up right over the exposed body rock, fast hollowing drop followed by a single hard cutback, two pumps and then a race past the lifeguard tower. Not bad for starters... paddle back.
Two: Back to the lineup and here it comes, right on pace with my paddle back, a little bigger, shoulder high, closed out after ten yards, paddle back.
Three: Punch through a few closeouts on the way back out, then this one rolls in, outside of the first two but in from the closeouts. Take a 3-second break while it shoals and rolls in through the kelp, then GO. Fast drop, hard bottom turn, hollow and no slow sections, perfect. Each move followed by a drive through the hollows and a new move at the end. Not enough moves in my bag of tricks, it's still going, not too fast, not too slow, like falling dominos, it's still going, delay the bottom turn and come hard around for a floater over the end section. Paddle back.
Four: Get back to the lineup, legs tingling and shoulders hurting, no stopping, long sloping turnaround on the paddle back and a shoulder high hollow one, late drop, too far back on the tail, bog the cutback and collapse in the soup.
The sets stop rolling in as consistently and the crowd fills in, more fun waves to be had but a lot more hassling, and after the first four in a row it didn't matter.