Finally got my feet in the sand 4 1/2 hours after the alarm clock went off in the morning. It was pumping! Paddled out with a dry head, feeling good. Picked off the first right that came to me, casual paddle into a head high wave, and slipped off on the bottom turn, right off the front of the board. What!?!
Most of the larger sets were closeouts. Most of the overhead waves were as well, forcing a lot of pick-and-choosing. Surfed the rights, which meant a punishing trip back outside, but it was worth it.
Then the real sets started coming, and everyone got beat 50 yds inside about three times in a row. After the fourth time an hour later, turned around and let the whitewaater carry me in. Biggest waves I've seen in months.