Got plenty of notice that the swell had landed. Met up with Surfer Bob and headed with no delay to a great righthander that I'd never surfed before. The sun was on its way out as we clambered into the water, and the surf was pumping!
A little sketchy at first, very reminiscient of Abaloneville from south of the border. Lots of paddling to make it over the hump then a steepening drop that bowled out. From there it was a powerful drive that sometimes gave room for cutbacks and rebounds and sometimes just screamed.
Saw one great barrel out there, deep and for a couple of seconds. Epic!