| Date/Time: |
Friday, August 8th, 1:00 pm - 3:00 pm
|
| Location: |
Sequit / Secos
|
| Weather: |
Thick marine layer, light to moderate sideshores.
|
| Conditions: |
Poor, lots of chop, kelp seems to have died back and
a lot of it submerged under the high tide.
|
| Swell: |
Slowly fading hurricane swell, 4.5 ft at 11 s out of the south.
|
| Surf: |
Shoulder to head high with sets to overhead and a half.
|
| Comments: |
More consistent than yesterday (which
I mislabelled as Wednesday, sorry) and much more makeable,
but a bit smaller. The crowd was pretty thick but the size
and consistency meant plenty of waves for everyone and the
lengths of the rides kept the crowd in motion.
Surfed until my middle back and shoulders were on fire and
knotting up. Saw a lot of good waves, mostly got head high
insiders off the rock myself along with a few other shortboarders.
Got a little aggro at one point, dropping in on a guy who
surfs out there a lot; he paddled to the inside of me as I
was taking off. A crappy little waist-high wave, I kicked out
right away and apologized -- why hassle for such a shitty wave
when the sets are so good?
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