| August Overview | 1997 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Monday, August 18th, 10:00 am - 2:00 pm |
| Location: | Secos / Arroyo Sequit |
| Weather: | Warm and sunny, a few scattered high clouds. Perfect sunburning weather. |
| Conditions: | Fair to poor. Conditions seem to have been declining particularly during and since the Guillermo swell. The kelp has died back considerably, most likely due to warmer than normal water temps, and that has helped with paddling but severely hurt the conditions. |
| Swell: | Small on the buoys, around 2.5 ft at 17 s out of the S. |
| Surf: | Improving with the tide drop to consistent chest to shoulder high waves with head high sets. |
| Comments: |
Rushed out there after seeing an 8 to 10-wave set of head
high waves roll through the lineup. Rushed even faster
after two guys came back and raved about how consistent
it was. As a result, my sunscreen application was lacking
and got a bit burnt.
A very talkative crowd was in the water, lots of grumbling over a group of spongers who were loitering on the inside and snaking on just about every wave. They would typically kick out but I had to bodily shove one fellow off of one of my waves. Waves were quite poor and difficult to ride on the 6'6" at the start of the session, just mushing over and around and through the rock. Things picked up a lot when the dawn crew finally went in and the tide dropped, lots of waves right in that "fun" size: right around shoulder high with a bit of a steep, wally face, and very long rides. For me that's the ultimate wave to play around on, no adrenaline or big-wave jitters, perfect for ripping up however you like and requiring no ugly hopping. So, I stayed out much longer than I had originally anticipated. In fact, I stayed out so long that the dawn patrol crew was back for their second session and marvelling at my continued presence in the water. Eventually starvation, dehydration, and noodle-arms all conspired together with a big set to push me inside to the beach. Made it home almost in time to beat the 5 pm rush hour; gloated as workaholics stressed their way around me on the freeway and I just cruised. |