- Date/Time:
- Thursday, January 30th, 8:00 am - 11:00 am
- Location:
- Rincon Point
- Weather:
- Clear, sunny skies, dead calm air. Warm.
- Conditions:
- Super glassy with a little warble out of the south.
- Swell:
- West swell, waist high with chest to shoulder high sets.
- Comments:
- Headed out with intentions of longboarding C Street in warm offshore Santa Ana breezes. Seeing the point from southbound 101 was enough to make me turn around and paddle out to the indicator without looking.
Suiting up, I saw a surfer drive by in a van with his windshield wipers pulled up and away from the windshield, with a wetsuit draped across them and booties stuck on the ends. Air-drying!My wetsuit was already dry after taking a day off.Waves were larger on the indicator and rivermouth, but sectioning and bowling a lot with an apparent southern hemisphere swell ghosting into the lineup. Prime territory for small-wave ripping on a shortboard.
I moved into the cove where my 9'2" was more appropriate. Several long rides, including a couple to the freeway into ankle-deep water, taking off on the section straight out from the whip lady's house. Alternated between pumping from the tail and casual cutbacks to attempting mostly disastrous cross-steps to the nose.