| July Overview | 1997 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Saturday, July 19th, 8:00 pm - 11:00 pm |
| Location: | Sequit / Secos / Leo Carrillo |
| Weather: | Clear skies, no wind, full moon. |
| Conditions: | Perfect glass, a little high tide swash and backwash off the rock, only 6 people out during the peak of the crowd. |
| Swell: | Small southern hemi, 2.3 ft at 14 s., out of the south. |
| Surf: | Thigh to chest high. One shoulder high set. |
| Comments: |
An intuitive, totally fun experience. Imagine the waves
as large as you like. Surf with your eyes closed since
you can't see the waves anyway. Get as many waves as you
want since there's no crowd.
Tim' and I headed down to catch the last of the little swell, packing some camping gear in case it was worth staying overnight for a predawn patrol the next morning. A disappointing look from atop the stairs at nightfall, but walking down to the lifeguard tower revealed the occasional lined up wave warbling through the lineup rock and then peeling onto the sand near the tower. The first few waves were pretty sketchy late takeoffs in the foam, unable to see anything. Got my eyes adjusted to the dark and my brain adjusted to not seeing much of anything and it got fun. Feeling the wave with my feet instead of seeing it, cutback placements on the 6'6" being based entirely on emotion and guesswork than visual perception. The clincher for the session was picking off a shoulder high set wave and actually surfing it through the racetrack and nearly to the stairs before kicking out as the foaming closeout flashed white moonlight down the line in front of me. Got out early and saw Tim' get a few more set waves on his 8' fun board. We didn't camp since the swell essentially died at around midnight, and we both had people waiting for our return at home. Both of us swore to be back in 28 nights. |