| Date/Time: | Sunday, June 1st, 10:00 am - 1:30 pm |
| Location: | Arroyo Sequit / Secos / Leo Carrillo |
| Weather: | Sunny and hot, no wind locally. Strong onshores in Ventura and Santa Barbara by mid-afternoon (or earlier?). |
| Conditions: | Pristine glassy perfection. |
| Swell: | Moderate and holding southern hemi, 3' at 17 s. from the SSW. |
| Surf: | Waist to shoulder high with head high to overhead sets. Less consistent than the day before but a little larger. |
| Comments: |
So tired after yesterday that I slept 4 hours through
my attempted 4 am wakeup call. Showed up late along
with the rest of the lazy-boy crew. Very similar to
yesterday with a slightly thicker yet more spread-out
crowd and again plenty of waves to go around.
Got a good look at all the hazards today. A guy on an 11'+ board was shoulder-hopping all the waves (snaking a bunch of guys), to the point where I was publicly declaring that I was tired of watching him surf. Especially after he nearly ran me and one other guy over kicking out of a wave because he'd snaked someone. Got burned by one fellow who tried to share a bowling peak right atop the body rock with me; started to take the drop and found him and his 9' board hovering a few feet overhead. With dry reef approaching and unable to go up and out of the wave or down the line and too late to straighten out, the only option was to get airborne and hope not to hit bottom. Made it with no reef contact and had a good chat with my wave buddy afterwards. In between all this managed to get a ton of waves, totally amped and raving by the end of the session, tired, sunburnt, starving. Made it in over the rocks this time without incident -- tip: when you go in, go in near the big rock where the rocks are padded by kelp, not down by the lifeguard tower where they're padded by mussels and more sharper rocks. Tried to go home by way of Kanan-Dume, got skunked and was even more bummed to see that Encinal Canyon was the alternate route; what used to be a little-known road over the mountains was now thoroughly packed. Another secret spot is gone. Swung through the neighborhood Borders and got a copy of Yothu Yindi's "Freedom" CD -- excellent mixes of modern musical production with Aboriginal traditional music. Been looking for something of this vein since seeing Green Iguana and finally got their name off of the Litmus (which is, by the way, a truly excellent video, especially for you S.B. surfers and Tom Curren fans) credits. |