| Date/Time: | Sunday, June 29th, 1:00 pm - 4:00 pm |
| Location: | Sequit / Secos / Leo Carrillo |
| Weather: | Beautiful beach day with building to strong side-onshore winds. |
| Conditions: | Fair to poor, kelp keeping the chop manageable. Very crowded. |
| Swell: | Small summer swells, fading out of the S and building out of the SW, averaging about 2 ft. 17 s. |
| Surf: | Waist to chest high with a few head high sets. |
| Comments: |
The first over-hyped summer swell of the season. Anticipation
was running hot and heavy as early as Friday morning, and good
reports from Hawaii's south shores made for a thick weekend
crowd wondering where the waves were. Today was my 3rd 4am
wakeup to check the buoys and still nothing showing.
By noon there was a blip on the CDIP compass, and I was off. Convinced Bettye to join me. On our way out the door, got a call from my parents, who decided on the spur of the moment to meet us there. I would have an audience! We met on the sand and after enduring the inevitable posing for pictures while Mom shutterbugged, it was off to the lineup. Inconsistent waves that were fanning too far wide on the low tide and too many people in the water, but that's what you get on a Sunday here. Kept getting snaked, too, but handled it with aplomb, waving to my folks on the beach after each ride. Best waves were a perfectly-timed late drop right next to the lineup rock followed by a super hollow drive for daylight down the line that I never quite reached, and a late afternoon spin-and-plunge on the largest wave of the only overhead set we had. Didn't even make it to the bottom. Eventually tired and went in, to hear Mom say, "That was great! I was going to clean the bathroom today, but this is a lot better!" Mom, you should see how much fun it is when you're out there. |