- Date/Time:
- Wednesday, March 19th, 10:00 am - 12:30 pm
- Location:
- North County
- Weather:
- Unseasonably warm and dry, no clouds to be seen.
- Conditions:
- Good, some warble coming from the outside 10-15 kt. winds.
- Swell:
- Strong out of the west, head high to overhead and a half with cleanup sets pushing to double overhead.
- Comments:
- What a flat spell! I've been jonesing so bad I've gotten downright crochety, to the point where Bettye has begun to demand that I GO SURF so I won't be such a pain in the ass.
You don't have to tell me twice... so I went.Wind swell lumps making the drops interesting, tons of big fat top-to-bottom barrels like you see in surf movies followed by really slopy flat shoulders great for planting a big cutback. Tried my best many times to do one like Carroll in the latest SURFER (except I'm a regular foot and I'm going right and I'm a better surfer...) -- almost succeeded once or must have since it drew some hoots from some guys on the inside.Got cleaned out and washed in to waist-deep water by cleanups two or three times. Perserverance paid off, as after each cleanup those of us who made it back out were treated to a thinner crowd and more fun waves.