- Date/Time:
- Friday, March 21st, 9:00 am - 12:00 noon
- Location:
- Rincon Point
- Weather:
- Mild, overcast morning with clearing skies by noon.
- Conditions:
- Fair, some warble and bump to the waves, high tide mush.
- Swell:
- Shifty swells from multiple sources, predominantly WNW groundswell, inconsistent and waist to shoulder high.
- Comments:
- The original plan was to head into the North County to catch the tail end of the swell from yesterday and Wednesday. Small craft advisories went up on the west channel and north county, with potential gale warnings; that, coupled with an erroneous 6am reading on the Santa Monica buoy of 6 ft. 13 s. (!) on the weather radio was enough to keep me on the south coast.
Continuing my streak of taking out inappropriate equipment, I selected my 6'6" in hopes of scoring similar conditions to yesterday as the tide went down. The longboard would have been more suitable today just as the shortboard would have been better yesterday. I swear that I eventually learn from my mistakes.
Mixed-up waves due to the multiple swell sources, sectioning in lumps of whitewater way wide of the takeoff zone, kinda sucky, a lot like a really good day at Devereux. Still had fun rebounding the whitewater and then cutting back left across the still-green face behind me.
Stayed out pretty late, getting tempted towards the end by hollow and lined-up cove cylinders. Got one or two and then misjudged the third. Paddled too slow and weak into the shoulder high bowl, and compounded my mistake by not getting out of the wave soon enough, got pitched over the falls. Hit the sandbar on my back, then got swept over again, this time taking a fin in the back. The fin lodged right in the zipper of my suit and broke off the board cleanly, left hanging by a sliver of roving with only minor damage to the surrounding glass. There wasn't even any exposed foam afterwards, although the sanding resin coat was shot.
Got some clarification on yesterday's fight story. Apparently there were five kids who accosted this one fellow who dropped in on one of them. He went in to shore after enduring flying rocks and insults from the kids, at which point they beat the tar out of him. Shortly thereafter the locals came in, intervening to break up the fight. Three of them left behind their boards, which the victim destroyed on the seawall, dismissing the notion of pressing any charges.