- Date/Time:
- Wednesday, March 26th, 10:00 am - 12:00 noon
- Location:
- North County
- Weather:
- Overcast and hazy with nearby stormy-looking clouds. Strong side-onshore winds out of the south by southwest.
- Conditions:
- Surprisingly unaffected by the winds, fair with only a little bump.
- Swell:
- Big and building out of the west, head high to well overhead with sets pushing to double overhead.
- Comments:
- A lot of debating about where to go today, did a spot-check of the Gaviota coast to see utter flatness despite a pumping swell on the outer buoy readings and that clinched my destination.
(Not having the 6'6" due to the broken fin has been good in a sense; I've been pushin myself hard to find big surf worthy of my 7'2" when possible. If I had it today, I'd likely have wimped and surfed waist high Rincon; in fact I almost did that anyways)The winds were a bit of a bummer, but they turned out not to affect the waves too much. A large crowd out with nearly all going for the safer lefts which emptied out into a channel instead of the rights which emptied out into shallow water on the inside. This was compounded by the total unmakeability of the larger waves, which closed out wide and top-to-bottom, perfect for catching anyone inside like me who was foolish enough to try to go right.Got several great late drops. Made some trips into the green room. Only problem was someone kept closing and locking the door, barring and shuttering the windows, turning off the lights, and then throwing the furniture at me. A few times someone even dropped the whole damn green house and the family green station wagon on my head.
I mentioned getting caught inside previously; my session ended with a paddle out after a great wave turned into a duckdiving lesson. Just when I thought it was over and I was back to the inside of the lineup, another set came and I got washed most of the way back in. Tired and disenchanted by how close the shore was, I let the whitewater carry me the rest of the way.