| Date/Time: | Friday, May 16th, 10:00 am - 12:00 noon |
| Location: | Stables / Fairgrounds |
| Weather: | Summerlike gloom and grey, humid, light onshore breezes. |
| Conditions: | Fair, morning-sick and a little lumpy. Bottom contours cleaning up the waves as they broke into hollow little pits. |
| Swell: | Waning out of the west (4' at 11 s) with background out of the south. |
| Surf: | Thigh to waist high with some chest high sets. |
| Comments: |
After totally dialing into the Rincon scene
yesterday, was disappointed
to see crumbly mush atop the point today. I wasn't
the only one -- passed a longboarder on the trail
down into the cove who was coming back bone-dry
and shaking his head.
Debated about whether to push onward or give up -- decided to push onward and stopped here after seeing a set roll through that looked similar to what I saw on Wednesday. This time, I had my shortboard, so I was on it. Long walk out across the cobble field in front of the diminishing beach -- the parking lot is being eaten away as the influence of groins and jetties at the Ventura river exert their influence on the shape of longshore sediment transport and hence the beach and hence the base of the parking lot. What a mess. The waves didn't seem to mind, fortunately, bowling over fast and hard, being snapped up by the light crowd. Sometimes makeable, sometimes not, quite fun and rippable. The excellent shape made it easy to tear about on the wave without having to worry about grovelling for speed, just play with it. Take some casual and stall for the little tubey sections, take some aggro and flailing, waving arms and throwing little bits of spray, it's all fun. Went in at C Street after talking with a friendly local lass who was stoked to be back in the water after a month-long hiatus. I know the feeling! |