| Date/Time: | Friday, May 30th, 9:00 am - 11:00 am |
| Location: | Arroyo Sequit / Secos / Leo Carrillo |
| Weather: | Marine layer clearing to mostly sunny skies, no wind, warm water in the low 70's F. Trunkable! |
| Conditions: | Good to fair, a bit morning-sick, there's wind on the outside. |
| Swell: | Small southern hemi, 2' at 17 s. from the south. |
| Surf: | Thigh to waist high with chest high sets. |
| Comments: |
Could have trunked it today but played it safe and wore
the springer. Sequit is often 3 degrees colder than everywhere
else, but was totally toasty today.
Dropping tide and small waves, picked off all the ones I wanted by positioning myself just so. Impossible to get a good set wave though as the longboarders were owning the outside reef, even standing on the rock and doing jump-in no-paddle takeoffs. Got one good one. Mostly surfed like an old man, the wave shape was poor and spent a lot of time hopping instead of cranking good cutbacks. Sometimes you just suck, ya know? Eventually the longboarders went in as the tide dropped and it was just four, then two of us for about 15 minutes, getting a few fun ones before the crowd filled in and got aggro again. I had my fun, see ya! |