| November Overview | 1997 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Tuesday, November 11th, 8:00 am - 11:00 am |
| Location: | Rincon Point |
| Weather: | Some high altitude clouds with building rainclouds on the Santa Ynez range by noon. Yesterday was SE winds and rainstorms early followed by afternoon clearing, a one-day front. A new system is due to fill in this arvo. |
| Conditions: | Glassy and perfect, with some high tide / short period warble and mixup to it. The rivermouth had some reflected sidewaves coming off the indicator rocks. |
| Swell: | New swell, 12 ft at 13 s this morning on the Pt. Arguello buoy (aka Pt. Conception on NOAA's radio). Don't know the direction. |
| Surf: | Head high plus with overhead and a half on the largest sets. Bigger on average in the rivermouth. Didn't see the cove. |
| Comments: |
Was surprised to hear the buoys jumping this morning on the
radio; thought I'd go take a look and see stormy junk. Everyone
else must have thought the same and not bothered to look,
because it was looking good and there were only 10 people out.
At Rincon with lined-up waves, that's no crowd at all, and if
it's consistent, it's a dream!
Sprinted down the stairs and across what's left of the beach and took the rocks as fast as possible. Gotta get some of this before the storm front hits, go go go. Took a 10-wave set on the noggin while paddling out next to a fellow on a 9'6" single fin Matt Moore. He'd jet ahead of me between waves, me on my 6'6", and then get dragged behind me when the whitewater hit. Eventually my duck-diveable board got me outside through the peak of the set while he took a trip to the rivermouth. Fast waves that struggled a bit with the tide were rolling a little inconsistently across the top of the point. Pretty easy drops for their size, tide helping there, fast and makeable all the way into the rivermouth. Again and again, s-s-so f-f-fast that it was hard to lay a good cutback. A moderate current was pulling down the point and exhausting everyone. Just wait till it gets 2xO, dudes. Only thing that kept it from being perfect was an obnoxious flat section on the smaller stuff that totally shut down the wave before it bowled in the rivermouth. Just couldn't get through it, even the longboarders were bogging on it. Dialed into the peak of an 8-wave set atop the point, a big drop followed by a long closeout wall. Shortly afterward got another good one that roared into the rivermouth. Maximum trim, and the wave is getting hollower and bigger and the shoulder is getting more and more distant -- I went the range from totally stoked to nervous to g-g-get me outa here! Kicked out relieved and amped and went in shortly afterward. Wednesday am update: Hope nobody got flooded out during the moderate surf and high tides. NWS issued a coastal flood warning (flooding is imminent) for last night through the morning. The swell has backed off this AM and gone way north to a true NW from 315 degrees. More on the way, though. |