| October Overview | 1997 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Friday, October 3rd, 9:30 am - 11:30 am |
| Location: | Rincon |
| Weather: | Sunny and unseasonably warm, very light westerly air. |
| Conditions: | No wind or chop, but multiple swells and lots of rebound in the cove coming off the indicator. |
| Swell: | 9 ft at 12 s out of the WNW and a small background SSW. |
| Surf: | Overhead sets in the rivermouth, peaks up to shoulder high in the cove with waist high walls. Cove to freeway rides uncommon due to sections but they happened sometimes. |
| Comments: |
Still on the longboard due to 6'6" delamination; watched a
lot of waves roll through the rivermouth that I could have
really enjoyed on my 7'2". This is why I try to longboard
at longboard spots, otherwise I find myself often wishing I'd
brought a different board.
But hey, the waves were great. Light to moderate crowd scene and a lot of sections around to pick off the waves. Difficult to catch as the crossed-up swells and rebound made peaks appear, shift, and vanish with little predictability. Fun waves once they appeared and stuck around, and the sections made for fun stretches for the nose through the hollows followed by backpedals to cutback and repeat to the freeway seawall. Didn't even get snaked but I saw a few others get burned badly. Update: Hit it again from 4:00 pm - 7:00 pm on the 7'2". Solidly overhead on the sets when they came, the swell had lost some consistency and acquired some junk and bump. The rivermouth was far and away the call, lots of clean peaks compared to the indicator. I mostly hung on the outside and picked off the sets, got my first leg-shaker to the cove lineup, lots of snaps and roundhouses and whiteawater rebounds and no problems being snaked. Lovin' it! |