| September Overview | 1997 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Thursday, September 25th, 6:30 am - 8:00 am |
| Location: | Ventura County |
| Weather: | Muggy and warm, thundershowers over the Santa Monica mountains. |
| Conditions: | Sheet glass at dawn with building offshores. Hollow! |
| Swell: | Combination of South Pacific swell and hurricane swell. The N. Pacific swell wasn't in much evidence while we were out there but has pinged the Harvest Platform with a 9 ft. at 20 s. buoy reading out of the WNW. |
| Surf: | Shoulder high to overhead and a half, barrelling and spitting, lots of shoredump on the high tide. Mostly lefts. |
| Comments: |
Nobody out when we pulled up to this beachbreak after checking
Miramar and Rincon in the dark pre-dawn and giving C-Street a
once-over. It looked a lot more rideable from shore than it
actually was, waves holding back and holding back just until the
bottom drops out. Fast and hollow and breaking very close to
shore. We didn't do it justice.
I got a couple of waves and mostly sketched out on a lot of takeoffs. Very difficult to scratch into and most of them I wasn't sure I wanted to. Wipeout of the summer today. Paddled confidently into a right and began my drop perfectly positioned, but set my line a bit too high in retrospect. Never made it to the bottom as the wave just sucked and sucked and sucked out in front of me while it bowled a 90-degree turn right at me. By then my board had been drawn all the way up the face and I was airborne, diving flat into the little sidewave-bowl which pushed me back into the pocket and then over the falls. Something whistled past my ear in the maelstrom, think it was my fin. The usual rubbing alcohol treatment to clear the water out resulted in a lot of pain this afternoon, so I hit the urgent care center with fear of missing the rest of the swell. Doc told me it was nothing, my eardrum and ear are fine, there's a small cut in there that could have been from some sand or something. Then he tells me to "go surf, Campus Point is all-time right now, I saw it on my lunch break." See ya, I'm going surfing, doctor's orders! |