| Date/Time: |
Sunday, September 28th, 4:00 pm - 7:00 pm
|
| Location: |
North County
|
| Weather: |
Clear skies, hot.
|
| Conditions: |
Warbly and crossed up, almost windswelly, no chop.
|
| Swell: |
Combination WNW and southern hemi SW swells. Buoy readings
dropping fast by the hour, around 7 ft at 11 s.
|
| Surf: |
Shoulder to head high with some solidly overhead drops on
the sets. Hard to get a good bead on the size since there
were only two of us out and the sun was in our eyes.
|
| Comments: |
Shifty, crossed-up peaks and nobody out except for a couple
walking topless along the beach. Made a few drops on my 7'2"
and pulled away from many more. Tim', the driver, went after
a bunch more of them than I did, and got sent on air trips to
the bottom once or twice. The guy is nuts, but he got the best
rides of the day.
|