First light came as I pulled up, revealing 5 people in the water and a line of 5 cars with campers waiting to get into the camp scene with the ranger station still closed and the road not open. Parked on PCH and suited up while I watched the occasional waist high roller come in.

Crowd doubled quickly, but most of them sat wide and the scene was pretty mellow. Throughout the session went either for the small insiders or the big outsiders and left the ones bowling over body rock alone, no place for a 9'2". Got the first three waves that hit the reef by my usual means of not hassling for the first wave of a set and instead focusing on position for the second, plus some fast paddling and intuition that "this one's gonna hit out there." Big, fun, kinda fast and sectiony -- too S of a swell but I still got three reef waves to the stairs.

After that I kinda felt guilty and promised to give a few away, which I did the next two I saw. Last one bowled hard and closed down the line and ate me up in mid-drop, wanted no part of it so I dove deep. Felt my karma points restored and the session remained fun despite a trip over the flat inside part of the big rock; pulled back on one of those ones I usually avoid to prevent from being victimized by a drop-in, and got victimized by the back of the wave which pulled me hard left and tumbled me over the mussels. Could have been worse, only minor scrapes and bruises, and no dings. Went home relieved and stoked about a half hour after that.