| Date/Time: |
Monday, August 3rd, 6:00 am - 9:00 am
|
| Location: |
Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo
|
| Weather: |
Thick soggy marine layer blanket burying the coast, light
southeasterly winds.
|
| Conditions: |
Glassy and perfect worsening to fair on the inside as those
weird winds kick a regular chop into the lineup.
|
| Swell: |
Solid and building out of the SSW (200), 3 ft at 20 s
swells last night and this morning, up to 4 ft at 20 s
swells as I post this report. 3.5 ft at 20 s on Harvest,
some RMS math indicating 1 ft swells from Estelle who
120 kt. max sustained winds a couple of days ago; her
influence is showing but not the dominant swell by far.
|
| Surf: |
Chest high to overhead and a half on the sets. Wrapping
strangely and shifting with SSE influence definitely
visible.
|
| Comments: |
Tried to improve on yesterday's dawn patrol
by mobilizing faster. Knew from the buoys by the evening that
the swell had landed, and was ready to go. Only flaw: slept
through 40 minutes of the alarm, need to crank the volume higher
or switch to a more aggressively-programmed station. Unfortunately,
either solution will definitely put me under duress from the
cohabitant of my bed.
Still got out the door quickly enough to match yesterday's
water entry time, this time with the 6'6" in hand. Almost
too little board today; wouldn't have minded the 7'2" for
some of the bigger waves which I dropped late
and had speed-chatters on the entire way. Solid waves breaking
hard from rock to rock, a very uncivilized session today as
compared to the longboard mellowness of the day before. The ones
that did go all the way through were perfect from takeoff to
finish, and the closeouts were thick and taking no prisoners.
One set of ten or more of them cleared the inside lineup
completely, each one totally unrideable except for a drop.
I preferred to get the smaller ones of the bunch, still solid
overhead and very fun and not quite so punishing.
|