We had a blast; probably would've had even more fun and more barrels if I hadn't snoozed the alarm for a half hour straight before waking with a 'shit!' and running out the door.

From the shoulder I saw Jose pull into a nice one over the sandbar, he had it fully dialed in and didn't really have to do anything, or at least that's how he made it look. Best barrel I saw anyone get all session long.

I was on my backside and apologized as soon as I paddled out for my imminent kooking in hollow lefts. As I anticipated, I went over the falls and found the bottom on my first wave. Managed to rail-grab my way into the green room on a couple later on but kept getting unseated before getting out. I think maybe I'm letting my board's tail pop out by grabbing the rail too hard. From there it was never far to projecting forward, catching the curtain on my back and then -- aha! The bottom again! Never hit rock, fortunately.

I'd tell you where we ate lunch but can't recall the name. Look for frogs on the windows and earthy art on the inside. Old town / downtown Ventura.

Afternoon session at County Line, not much to speak of there. Surfed down at Yerba Buena to start; I didn't get much and moved to the beachbreak and got a few big fat slumpy ones before declaring the session over. I try to keep a positive spin on days like that; I figure it's ample justification for all the time I spend at Leo.