| August Overview | 1998 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Thursday, August 27th, 2:30 pm - 4:30 pm |
| Location: | Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo |
| Weather: | Strong westerly winds, light streaks of cirrus and cirrostratus cloud formations. |
| Conditions: | Poor. Blown to hell, seemed to be clocking a bit sideshore and could have glassed out by the time I got back to S.B. Mostly a hassle on the paddle and the drops, down the line the waves were pretty clean. |
| Swell: | Multiple southern hemi swells and hurricane swell off of Howard. Combined buoys to 4 ft, 17 s, holding. |
| Surf: | Shoulder high waves off the rock with sets up to overhead and a half. |
| Comments: |
Hadn't seen my office desk since Monday and things were
piling up; in fact I wasn't even planning to surf today.
One look at Huey and
I was wrapping things up and getting out the door; solid
green colors like that on a SW mean go.
Strong winds today made for a quick session; tried to find a sheltered spot elsewhere but didn't have much luck. Did find a few places out of the wind and uncrowded but the tide was all wrong. So, after a quick stop at Noah's bagels and a look at the new berm breach at the 'Bu it was back to Secos for a taste of the wind. Stuck to the reef lineup and played the waiting game, wanting to get the most out of each wave as the paddle back into the wind was miserable, especially with wavesailers doing their thing in close proximity. Great size and direction, and didn't have to pick and choose too much to get outside sets that went all the way past the stairs. The wind made it a bit awkward, not so much choppy as an unbalancing shove to the back at every off the top. The lips would show and then fade back, often leaving me hanging up there and fighting to stay with the wave, but I won the battle each time. Got out early after my fourth or fifth one all the way through, figure I can always get it early tomorrow. |