| Date/Time: |
Friday, August 28th, 7:00 am - 9:30 am
|
| Location: |
Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo
|
| Weather: |
Thick marine layer, already pushed offshore in the Oxnard
plain by dawn. Burned off by sunrise in the lineup. Building
westerly breezes by midmorning.
|
| Conditions: |
Poor, morning sick leftover bump from the blowout
yesterday. As the sideshores
filled in it actually seemed to clean things up a bit.
|
| Swell: |
Fading south swell from multiple sources. 3 ft at 17 s swells
from 180 on the buoys.
|
| Surf: |
Waist high to shoulder high waves with overhead sets.
Very inconsistent with one lull stretching for a good
20 minutes.
|
| Comments: |
The best waves of the day I watched from the sand as
I stretched out and warmed up for my 6th session in
the past 4 days. Probably would have been a better idea
to rush it as the waves seemed to die back soon after
I got in.
Unusually mushy and gutless waves down the line, good
drops but not much follow-up. Had the 6'6" in the water
but several of them had me thinking about my longboard
and a few had no shoulder at all, just a peak and then
ride the crumble alongside the big rock. Best moments
were working carves, snaps and rebounds off the closing
inside section in front of the lifeguard tower.
|