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My first time surfing this spot. Looked deceptively easy
from the meadow, couldn't see the bottom of the waves and
how steep the drops really were. Backwash made it difficult
to get the waves and really steepened them up hard. Top
to bottom, double overhead waves, plowing onto the reef.
Took out the 7'2" and was thinking it was a bit too much board.
Couldn't have been more wrong. I got pitched a lot and made
some of the gnarliest, latest, most tenuous drops of my career,
but never made anything down the line. Saw some insane barrels.
I was out of my league.
Checked a bunch of spots and took photos before and after
Hammond's; here's the skinny:
- Devereux
- Checked it at dawn, looking big and mean and lumpy,
couldn't tell how big with nothing to scale by. Nobody
out save one hapless soul getting mowed under all the way
to DP.
- Campus Point and Goleta Beach
- Checked them just after dawn and also in the afternoon.
Poles had overhead waves, the point was half again overhead.
Best shape atop the point with a fast spinning hollow wall
that subsides into a weak shoulder. Shoulder high beachpound
at Goleta Beach, quite a sight.
- Rincon
- On the way down I saw a section at Summerland peak and throw
that I've never seen before. Waves were overtopping the rocks
along Santa Claus Lane with spray.
Rincon was huge, consistent double to triple overhead waves,
gave it a lot of thought but eventually decided it was too much for
me. Watched 10 people paddle out from the base of the stairs
and get mowed all the way around the point and presumably to
the freeway. Saw only one person make it out and just barely
at that.
That's the southernmost point of my surf check. The Ventura
pier was reported closed, with sets breaking up to 100 yards
outside of it. Haven't heard yet if it has been further
shortened like it was in '95.
- Sandspit
- Checked it after surfing, looked fast and fun with the
sand heavily built up in the middle of the lineup, making it
a bit more of a closeout than normal. Head high and blown
out by the SE winds.
- Gaviota Coast
- Checked it out late afternoon, pretty bumped out with
the SE wind but still overhead to double overhead waves,
thick and heaving with variable crowds depending on the
spot.
Look for the swell to build into tomorrow with conditions
getting worse.
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