| July Overview | 1998 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Monday, July 13th, 1:30 pm - 5:30 pm |
| Location: | Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo |
| Weather: | Coastal marine layer heavy, light winds out of the west building into the afternoon. |
| Conditions: | Fair worsening to poor as the chop filled in. High tide all arvo. |
| Swell: | Slowly building out of the SW, 2 ft at 20 s swells at noon. |
| Surf: | Knee to waist high background swells with very setty shoulder high to overhead sets coming in pulses of 10 or 20 waves. |
| Comments: |
Definitive longboard surf when I checked it in the early
afternoon, knee high well-shaped peelers rolling off the
reforms inside the rocks and a sizeable crew making good use
of them. Paddled out on the 9'2" with a dry head and
proceeded to join in, getting some of the waist high outsiders
and talking story about "stick boy"s visit to the lineup
during the last session. Even got a
veranda over the body rock on one. A fun
time with a pretty big but mellow and stoked crowd, lots of
waves being given away.
About two hours into it a solid set cracked across the reef; I let the few hungry shortboarders have the first ones and picked off a later one myself, fast and reeling all the way to the stairs. Ran back up the point and had a hell of a time getting back out, took six or so waves on the head. The waves kept coming on and building... "the swell's here!" I thought and my thoughts were confirmed as I dropped late into a macker, grabbing rail for dear life as it threw out over the body rock and clipped me good. I can take a hint. Ran back to the car and grabbed my 6'6" and a gulp of water and then paddled back out. Unfortunately the sets pretty much ended, and more didn't come for about thirty to forty minutes. Didn't get another rockin' set like the one that sent me in until I was back at the showers. Still, the instant transition from long to short was a real head trip, but I'd like to think I adapted quickly. Enjoyed carving harder turns but had a bit of trouble bogging down in the flats, kept looking for that extra volume that wasn't there. |