| June Overview | 1998 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Monday, June 1st, 11:00 am - 3:30 pm |
| Location: | Malibu |
| Weather: | Another beautiful beach day, mostly sunny with building westerlies to strong by late afternoon. |
| Conditions: | Clean and glassy the whole time I was out, Sequit by 5 pm was looking pretty lumpy and windy, enough for the windsurfers, but still very surfable. |
| Swell: | Fading out of the SSW, 5 ft at 14-17 s. I suspect it had already dropped by the time I arrived. Down to 3 ft at 14 s by midnight tonight. |
| Surf: | A half to two thirds the size of yesterday, shoulder to head high with solid overhead+ sets. |
| Comments: |
Took care of a bit of work before heading out this AM,
buoys still strong but the swell not looking quite as good,
makes me think they dropped pretty quickly once I hit the
road.
Checked Secos early on and saw typical low-tide big swell action, with all the surfers lining up on the windsurfing rock and catching huge balls of whitewater, hopefully hanging on strong enough to pop up for the reform. After watching the 'bu all day yesterday, it was lingering in my head today, and figured I should give it a go. Insanely crowded, like the most packed weekend day of all time at Rincon, only the waves were pretty inconsistent. 3rd point was sectiony and really too fast to surf more than a few pumps followed by a floater. I got my best waves from 2nd point in to 1st, and one all the way to the pier shorebreak. Speedy little walls atop the point, all down the line hard before reaching the inside 1st point fun section. Like Sequit but in reverse. The crowd was maddeningly thick, and I saw drop-ins and snakes that'd result in combat at just about any other spot I've ever surfed, or at least a lot of screaming, but everyone was managing to stay light-hearted about it, remaining comical in the face of the absurdity of it all. At least the water was warm, and what waves I did get were classic. |