| Date/Time: |
Monday, June 15th, 10:00 am - 2:30 pm
|
| Location: |
Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo
|
| Weather: |
Marine layer heavy; patchy fog and overcast all day. No wind.
|
| Conditions: |
Excellent and glassy all session long.
|
| Swell: |
Dropping SSW swell, 4 ft at 17 s AM buoy reading on Santa
Monica. Once again problems getting online so direction
is intuited.
|
| Surf: |
Inconsistent and fading fast, must have peaked yesterday
despite optimistic forecasts for holding swell through
today. Chest to shoulder high with head high sets.
|
| Comments: |
- The Good:
-
Perfect waves coming across the outer lineups with the
tide push, got on it a few hours before the crowd did
with low expectations and right off dialed into a speedy
one all the way to the stairs, kicked out with heart pounding.
Lots more to follow throughout the session for both Surfer
Bob and me. Fast all morning long, with the usual slow spots
nonexistant and the wave a racy demon all the way down the
line, loads of fun if you can make it.
Surf food was exquisite, a pre-surf repast at the local French bakery
across from the Malibu lagoon, tasty sweet cheese danish and cinnamon
rolls. Post-surf papaya-bannana smoothies served in huge 16+ oz
margarita-style glasses with tortas combinaciones at Rebecca's
juice bar in downtown Oxnard.
- The Bad:
-
We were hoping for better! Last night arranged for a super
early dawn patrol to until
recently never-before surfed spots with Surfer Bob, the 7'2"
looking stoked and ready to go. By the AM buoy report I knew it
was down and brought the 6'6", but even that proved inadequate.
We drove as far as Malibu hoping for something but found nothing.
Dawdled for a good 2+ hours before hitting the lineup at Secos.
More bad news in the lineup. An irate surfer hassled someone for
not paddling hard enough to get out of his way on a set wave,
preventing him from dropping in. Same guy later hassling his
drop-in victims for giving some 'my wave' hoots. Yet another
guy stuffs someone else in the critical section in front of the
rock, ding city, shades of yesterday's 3-man
rockfest. Perhaps worst of all, I got kinda cold after surfing for
nearly 5 hours straight.
- The Ugly:
-
Itchy, gnarly fungal rash setting in from improperly dried
trunks. Tolfunate for me and laundry for the trunks!
|