| Date/Time: |
Monday, June 22nd, 1:00 pm - 4:00 pm
|
| Location: |
Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo
|
| Weather: |
Sunny and warm with mild to moderate westerlies.
|
| Conditions: |
Windswelly, choppy and poor all afternoon.
|
| Swell: |
Small, 2.5 ft at 17 s from 190 degrees.
|
| Surf: |
Very setty, big when it rolls in, waist high with chest
to head high sets.
|
| Comments: |
Just had to get in the water; bad time last week as Bettye
got rear-ended while on a brand new (less than 24 hours old)
mountain bike. Car skidded right into her from behind,
fortunately she had her helmet on or she'd be seriously hurt.
Got by with just a twisted knee and has me to play chauffeur
for two weeks.
So salt water soul therapy was called for! Dragged the 9'2"
out into marginal conditions on the low tide and too-south
swell, had a hard time negotiating the drops with the chop but
managed a few sizeable peaks and one hairy trip between the
body rock and the big one at full speed with the foam ball
chasing me down. Best time on the inside on the small ones,
crystal clear water and little waves zippering right over
the rocks, stick a hand in the lip and wave to the starfishies
as ya float by.
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