| May Overview | 1998 Overview |
| Date/Time: | Friday, May 29th, 11:00 am - 2:30 pm |
| Location: | Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo |
| Weather: | Mixed clouds burning off by the afternoon, clearing winds following the tail of a front that brought us trace rainfall in Santa Barbara / Goleta yesterday. |
| Conditions: | Poor, strong sideshore windchop and cross-bump making it difficult to line up the big rock takeoff properly. |
| Swell: | Fading SSW groundswell, morning reading of 4 ft at 14 s from 190, down to 3 ft at 14 s from 195 by the evening. The readings peaked overnight and I wouldn't expect this to build into Saturday as originally hoped. |
| Surf: | Waist to chest high, inconsistent head high sets. |
| Comments: |
Aside from the wind, the waves were breaking much like they
did on yesterday afternoon, closing out
on the big sets even during a 4 ft high tide. Choppy conditions
and wind bump preceding the smaller waves made it really hard
to get properly set up with the big rock, the waves would just
roll under instead of drawing out and breaking. Those that did
break would turn to mush down the line and section about 10
yards past the weak shoulder.
Sooo, I was pretty glad I got so much surfing in yesterday, and today was mostly a day for picking up the smaller scraps and the occasional set wave. Actually, only one that wasn't either spoken for or closing out, and it went only half the distance to the stairs. Got a good carve on a few of the closeout sections and a few snapbacks in, making do as best I could. Eventually got caught inside while paddling back out and relented, letting the whitewater carry me to the base of the lifeguard tower. Showered off only to find somehow a huge gob of tar had gotten up the leg of my wetsuit and all over my calf. Pretty much summed up the session, that. |