A sublimely beautiful morning, with a fresh smell in the air, no wind, and lots of wildlife frolicking about. Saw more sea lions in this one sesh than I have in the past three months. Biggest waves I've surfed since February, so the amp-meter was running high. Big waves bowling hard and moving fast down the line, used every inch of my 7'2" to scratch into every drop. From there it was hard, full-trim pedal-to-the-metal turns to get past the first few sections before some fat shoulders for cutbacks started showing up. A lot of fun for its size, and somehow didn't get caught inside at all. Probably due to excess caution on my part, first time and all. Felt pretty worn out and hungry by the time I left.

Before and after that, swung by the usual suspects to get some photos, which should be back from the developer by Tuesday. Drainpipes was filthy big and hollow, 1 out of every 10 waves makeable and every one a top-to-bottom seething left. Latigo Point was solidly overhead and not too crowded, the first time I'd ever really seen good surf there. I reached the 'bu by the early afternoon, scarfed down a sandwich and got a few shots of the zoo scene. 1st point was peeling all the way to the pier, which was literally rocking and swaying as the largest waves rumbled by. One good hit and that thing could come down. On the way back home, I swung by Secos, which by then was high tide and still closing out like yesterday, only doing so in larger and more consistent fashion. Didn't see a single made wave out there in 30 minutes.

Swell should easily last through to Tuesday or maybe Wednesday. That'd be a full week! Hope you got some...