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We traditionally get some sort of swell for Thanksgiving. This
year it came a bit late and was a bit of a turkey. An underwhelming
swell. Even accounting for the utterly ridiculous
forecasts for "swells of the decade" from some, the models looked
to be producing something like
last Thanksgiving.
Wasn't quite even that good.
I wasn't that good either. Just came off a week-long throat
infection and surfed like it. No legs! With SurferBob back
on his shortboard after a summer of logging it and me tottering
along, we were quite the pair to be assaulting the midday 'con
crowd. Somehow we managed to get a few waves. Actually, I got
some excellent ones, shoulder high from very deep on the indicator
all the way past the rivermouth. Even got a wave in the cove at
the end of the session. The very bottom of the cove from the firepit
to the freeway was a reeling barrel that I watched for 5 or 10
minutes while warming my feet at the fire -- another Thanksgiving
tradition that I started late was wearing booties. Next time!
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