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Frustrating swell with a very thick crowd, probably
lured out by more impressive early morning sets. Those solid
and fast walls faded, leaving behind slower peaks that would
hit here and there on the point and occasionally connect the
sections. That is, if you could get one without having to
drop in on someone or have 5 or 6 people drop in on you.
I don't like to snake or drop in, so I didn't get many
waves at all. When I was ready to get "one more," that's
when the wait really got long. Waited and waited for that
one last wave in to the sand. When I finally got it, it was
shoulder high and connected with a series of walls and slower
spots to cut back, all the way through to the parking lot.
Best wave of the day for me.
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