That was probably a waste of time; got out there with about 4 other guys and chased a few big peaks followed by burgering sections. Late drops followed by desperate bottom turns into no-man's land. Drifted into the cove and my first wave was a solid overhead beastie with a pretty hollow pocket and walling shoulder - aha, this is the place to be - all the way to the freeway.

It wasn't easy to find more of those with the crowd filling in and the waves either shifting their peak, burgering out after breaking way outside, or closing on the inside sandbar. Saw more than a few barrels on that bar. Got one spectacular little tube myself on a waist high wave that doubled up to shoulder high on th inside. After the drop it looked so much like a nothing little waste of time that I almost kicked out of it in disgust. For some reason I didn't, and the wave again rewarded my patience with a barrel out of nowhere. Just like that, and then I was on the shoulder, the wave was completely spent.

Lots more after that, not perfect but the windswell added some variety to the wave rather than ruined it. Had to go in after a few more fast walls and bowls, too early for me but work was calling. Last wave was a gift from another surfer, a spin-and-go late drop over a regular step-ladder of easterly chop with an inside that didn't quite barrel but got fast and steep for a good fifty yards. As my wife said on her first day of surfing in just about the same spot, "I like to go fast!"