Big waves rumbling 100+ yds wide on the rivermouth section, none of which I even came close to getting. Settled for the smaller half-again to double-overhead stuff.

Most of the session was pretty frustrating, with several guys out on big boards taking a lot of the waves and me kooking the drops on the waves I did get. Every time it happened I'd be even more overamped for the next one, which made me eat it even worse. Those that I made were often closeouts in the rivermouth. Managed to get a few here and there despite all that, but it wasn't really coming together for me.

Right around the time I was looking for that very last wave in, I got the payback, a solid set wave from the very top of the Indicator to well past the call box on the freeway. For only the second time in my life! (see the first)

Worked that 7'2" so hard off the bottom with snaps off the top and the occasional roundhouse that my back leg had nearly cramped by the time I finished out the wave. Having to then turn back around and face the walls of whitewater trying to push me onto the granite seawall was a major ordeal, and I was nearly to the old bannana farm in La Conchita by the time I made it back outside. Felt really knackered upon reaching the top of the surprisingly uncrowded cove lineup -- the regular lineup, anyway, most of the rivermouth waves were rolling right on through -- and only took a few more before proning out on a third one about halfway down the point. My legs were still shaking when they touched dry sand.

Got some shots later that day up on the Gaviota Coast, hope they come out.