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Faark. I'm calling this the first overhyped south swell
of the season, with a universally late arrival from
every forecaster's prediction, including the 'big
boys' at Surfline and SurfFax, and 1/3 to 1/2 the
predicted size on Saturday, this goes beyond the
typical uncertainty associated with wave prediction.
Days like these (and the ones where they call it
way too low) remind me:
- Stop listening to forecasts and just go when the buoys are good.
- Stop listening to forecasts and don't go when the buoys are bad.
- Remember these days when pay-to-play forecasters brag their
accuracy/success rate.
So, on the strength of the forecast and a single jump
to 2ft@17s from 1ft@14s on the buoys, I let SurferBob
convince me to do the 4am drive, despite it being below
my threshold. The buoys didn't lie,
it was flat, and it didn't pick up.
Despite that, we had fun at Malibu. The water was warm and the
crowd at 1st point was thick but friendly, perhaps philosphical
about the lack of swell. I got a few rides in to the sand, even
one section towards the end of my session was zippy enough and
hollow enough that I popped up to a high line and threw my hands
over my head in a spontaneous expression of joy.
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