Surfer Bob paddled out with me; we'd packed long and short and opted for the length for 1st Point Malibu. Saw him get several fun waves largely to himself (but not always) down to the fence. I got my best views of his surfing while paddling back out, while he didn't see much of me as he mostly walked back. Changing diapers must not provide much cross-training for a surf session. Or maybe it was because he was riding Mr. Scott, not his real longboard, which had sufferred a horrible dry-docking on the rocks at Secos.

Laird was there, doing fins-first takeoffs and helicopters on a big board (looked at least 11'). An amazingly stoked-out and polite guy who went after his waves with a grin and a flair for fun. He lost his board (leashless) on a juicy one, falling with arms and legs splayed and getting taken over the falls. Surfing leashless, he somehow grabbed and held onto the monster red-and-brown slug of a board and popped up a few seconds later. Drove a few hard off the tops with arm positions that reminded me of photos I'd seen of Peahi.

Allen Sarlo was driving fast and hard around sections that I couldn't conceive anyone making, through the closeout in the middle of the point. From way down in the flats and behind the bounce-up from the falling lip he'd be calling someone off, from a position I'd be losing my speed from the drop and usually be straigtening out to ride the whitewater. I continue to look back as I float over the shoulder and the next thing I see is his board going vertical off the lip. Truly amazing how gifted surfers can generate that kind of speed from such a position.

Came in to find Surfer Bob had taken a little wave too far in over the cobble and routed out a piece of the nose of Mr. Scott about the size of half a club sandwich. A suitable sacrifice that deserved the new 9'4" Robert August Wingnut model he picked up from Waveline on the way back.