Longboards were called into action today as we were expecting knee high dink at C Street. Just imagine how stoked I was to find this. The inside of the cove was breaking fast but the curl line was smooth, perfect, and hollow. Get me in there!

Too many waves to count. Small ones to the freeway, with the whitewater pouring over the rails and shoving me along. Waist high nose trims, dragging fingers through the lip. Better yet was the hook stall and fast step forward over the sandbar to get covered up. Pulled it once, tried it a couple more times but only got verandas. Even stoked to share a fast bowl with Shaun Tomson, who dropped behind me into a pretty steep section. Zipped out of it and over the back with a smile, with memory flashes of "Free Ride." I could have aggressively asserted my "right" to the wave. It wasn't that kind of morning.

Best, though, was a big drop outside the sandbar and a big tracky bottom turn that I barely held onto as it walled through the inside. Fast. I raced walls, foamy sections, and steep spots. Heard hoots and saw people pulling back from the shoulder. Far back. Must have been deep a few times but never felt barrelled.

Wrestled with going in early and getting an afternoon shortboard session in, but it was just too good to get out. Never leave good surf. Left only after the lactic acid burn in my shoulders, neck, and upper back was good and strong.