| Date/Time: |
Monday, June 21st, 1:00 pm - 3:30 pm
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| Location: |
Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo
|
| Weather: |
June gloom with fading southerly breezes.
|
| Conditions: |
Poor and choppy, a strange chop with neither whitecaps
nor a discernible direction to it but a lot of washing
machine action. A healthy bit of kelp kept it clean.
Improving to fair as the wind died.
|
| Swell: |
Small to moderate SW swell, 2.6 ft at 17 s from 205.
|
| Surf: |
Inconsistent, waist high with shoulder to head high sets.
|
| Comments: |
Went back and forth today. From sitting on the reef and
getting impatient to moving inside by the rock. Inside
meant either getting a few fun but small ones or rushing
under the first two waves of a set to get the last of it,
only to find it maxing and closing out or the end of a
set and nothing.
Attempted a good floater over the body rock but bounced
on the landing. Landed a couple more on the inside shorepound,
and maintained generally good form despite the chop giving
it pretty weak and gutless shape on the shoulder. Overall
a decent maintenance session and I was glad to have paddled
out (almost didn't). Finished off backdooring the reef
peak on an overhead wave only to deal with a longboarder
who'd dropped in front. Kept doing these slow cutbacks towards
me like he wanted me to do paired up cross-overs or something,
but the slow speed of them made it nearly impossible to get
around him. Took the nose of his board across my shins trying to
take the low line, then went high and boosted a section to
get past. I heard grunts of surprise, not sure if he got
the message but he did get out of the wave at the end. Went
in without hassling him.
|