First wave was a wake up call, overhead and bowling hard on the sandbar. I made it down to what I thought was the bottom of the wave, but there were a few more feet to go below sea level. Pearled and took a trip over the falls.

Only five of us out to begin with, and the way to play was to take turns on the sandbar, occasionally rushing out to get to the bigger sets. Fun, fast waves with thin lips. As the sun came up, the crowd filled in and a few real overhead sets began rolling through, either backing off and hitting the bar hard or breaking outside enough that you could backdoor the section. Only got enough size of a wave and drove enough speed with my legs to make it on about half the waves I went for.

The best one: two in-and-out barrels followed by a long brown and sandy one that I didn't come out of far on the inside.

The worst one: trying hard for another one just as the sun clears the coastal range, ducked and turned under a small fan of spray which caught the light just right, momentarily blinding me, and as I'm trying to get around and into the pocket and set up for that section that must be -- right on my neck! Good thing it was a thin lip, all I got was a free chiropractic adjustment instead of being torn in two. Can't complain -- I got my barrel quota for the year in one wave.